A Montreal Classic
Meticulous French cooking with a gluten-free twist
Montreal has long been one of my favorite destinations, and the city is at its best in the summer. (Honestly, it’s great in winter as well, but do not underestimate the wind chill!) I love elegant Vieux Montreal, with its cobblestone streets and Old Port, where even the most boring bank building has a dramatic entryway. I love the city’s museums and churches, its many parks and gardens, its hidden bars and impromptu patios. Montreal’s charm lies in the fact that the city has been able to hold onto its beautiful historic heart while incorporating modern innovation. Even the landmark Notre-Dame Basilica hosts a stunning light show, AURA, that uses lasers to explore and highlight its beauty and grandeur. There’s no need to choose between the old and the new — both have their place, and they can coexist and even thrive together.
This is also something I appreciate about Montreal’s dining scene. There’s a dedication to classic French cuisine, to its elaborate techniques and style. But that’s not to say that it’s caught up in tradition. Montreal is an innovative place that is constantly evolving and reinventing, and that’s certainly true of its dining scene.
A case in point: Bistrot La Fabrique, a small, charming restaurant that overlooks Carré St-Louis (St. Louis Square). The area is bracketed by Le Plateau and the Latin Quarter, both tourist attractions, though Carré St-Louis is not quite so well-known. La Fabrique opened in 2008, with an open kitchen that allowed diners to watch chef Jean Baptiste Marchand’s meticulous work. A few years back, La Fabrique moved to its current spot on the same block, but the concept of strict attention to detail is the same.
Its menu is classic French bistro — think duck confit, pan-seared scallops, and more than one type of terrine. Everything is made from scratch in La Fabrique’s kitchen, with ingredients that tend to be locally sourced (easier in summer than winter, obviously). The menu is available in both French and English, and while it doesn’t list gluten-free options, many of the dishes can be prepared that way. (La Fabrique is also sensitive to nut allergies; they have vegetarian options as well.)
The menu changes frequently, so the delicious Canadian oysters with lemon and horseradish may or may not be on when you visit, nor the Quebec halibut in a bouillabaisse of fennel, Savoy cabbage, chanterelle mushrooms, and baby potatoes. But there will be the same attention to detail, classic cooking style, and warm hospitality. Bon appétit!
If you enjoyed this post, please click the “like” button below — that helps others discover my content.❤️