There are so many bizarre news stories out there these days, but the one that really caught my attention is about a bakery passing off donuts from Dunkin’ Donuts as their own homemade gluten-free, vegan confections. It’s such a dark, twisted tale that even People Magazine has picked up on it. The alleged perpetrator, a business called The Savory Fig, is now under investigation by a New York state agency.
If there’s any silver lining in this story, it’s the conscientious behavior exhibited by the owners of Cindysnacks, the vegan supermarket on Long Island that bought donuts from The Savory Fig. The owners noticed an issue, contacted the supplier about it, had an extensive back and forth, and then went on to do a home test for gluten since they weren’t satisfied with the answers they were getting. (The test was positive for gluten.) The owners of Cindysnacks then contacted the local health board. In short, they did everything right.
But that doesn’t make the fact that this happened in the first place any less upsetting. Anyone following a special diet, whether gluten-free or vegan, kosher or halal, nut-free or dairy-free, is putting serious trust in the hands of the people who feed them. That’s true of restaurants and shops, and it’s also true of processed-food manufacturers. (If you were eating gluten-free in 2008, you might remember the Chicago Tribune’s investigation into Wellshire Farms, which was then selling products that contained gluten as “gluten-free.”)
In an ideal world, everyone would be able to eat in safety and confidence. But all we have is this distinctly imperfect world, which sometimes seems like it’s hanging on by a thread. I’m an optimist by nature, and I’m frequently impressed with the great care individuals and businesses go to take care of my dietary needs. But sometimes I get a reminder that not everyone follows basic rules of decency. When I first read the donut story, I felt deeply shaken. But then I reminded myself that in 20 years of eating gluten-free, I’ve only been glutened a couple of times.
Since hearing so much about donuts, I’m now craving one, but only from a trusted source. That list would include:
Kinnikinnick: This has long been one of my favorite grocery-store brands, available at Whole Foods, Fairway, Safeway, and other chains. Founded in 1991 in Alberta, Canada, they bake some of the best gluten-free donuts I’ve ever tasted (I’m obsessed with the maple glazed, but don’t overlook the chocolate dipped, cinnamon sugar, and vanilla glazed options). Kinnikinnick was recently acquired by English Bay, another gluten-free brand, and while this means Kinnikinnick’s own online store is closing, their products will be available at even more supermarkets across the US and Canada.
The Holy Donut: Located in Portland, Maine, this is a tiny temple to one of the world’s great pastries. While it is not a dedicated gluten-free facility, the gluten-free donuts are produced in a special room used exclusively for GF production. They have some favorites that are pretty much always on the menu—like the gluten-free fresh lemon and the dark chocolate sea salt—and some that appear for a month or a season, like the “Wicked Espresso” on the current menu. There are three Holy Donut outposts in the Portland area.
Erin McKenna’s Bakery: My nieces adore this place, and for good reason — not only is the bakery gluten-free, it’s also nut-free (except for coconut), dairy-free, egg-free, and soy-free. That sounds like a lot of ingredients to do without, but the resulting confections—including the donuts—are simply incredible. The original outpost opened in New York City’s Lower East Side in 2005, and has since expanded to include locations in California and Florida. Three of the four locations are certified kosher (the Santa Monica location is not). Erin McKenna’s delivers nationwide.
Thank you Hilary for writing about this issue- I’ve followed along in horror!! Its frightening how little oversight there is into our food supply, Which can be a deadly issue for some people and cause serious illness in many more!! Also I’ve got more donut recipes in the works myself!!