Edinburgh Revisited
Great gluten-free finds in Scotland's capital
Edinburgh is one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited. The historic heart of Scotland’s capital is divided between the medieval Old Town and the Georgian New Town, with a green valley dividing the two. The view is breathtaking from either side of that chasm.
Old Town is incredibly well-preserved, and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It includes the famous “Royal Mile,” which runs from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace and the ruins of Holyrood Abbey. (History buffs will know that Holyrood is where Mary Queen of Scots lived for several years, married twice, and where her private secretary was murdered.) Old Town also features St. Giles' Cathedral, the National Museum of Scotland, Grassmarket, the Old College of the University of Edinburgh, and Parliament House. (The Scottish Parliament Building is also on that side of town, with a design that is decidedly modern.) This is also where you’ll find Greyfriars Kirk (Church), whose adjacent cemetery provided inspiration for the Harry Potter novels.
New Town isn’t really that new. Much of it was built between the 1760s and 1850s, and it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s home to the National Gallery of Scotland, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Calton Hill, and the Royal Scottish Academy. It also boasts a series of smaller art galleries — such as Fruitmarket and Collective — that showcase contemporary artists. The Princes Street Gardens is another major attraction: 37 acres of parklands in the valley between the two towns. Princes Street itself, which faces directly across from Old Town and Edinburgh Castle, is a major shopping thoroughfare.
Both Old Town and New Town are filled with terrific restaurants that cater to celiacs. While some of the restaurants I loved have closed since I visited (R.I.P. Kilted Lobster), here are a few spots I enjoyed.
Amarone: Gluten-free pizza and pasta are hard to resist, and Amarone does both beautifully. The space is elegant and chic, with polished wood and gorgeous views of St. Andrew’s Square, but the vibe is friendly and casual. There’s a special menu for kids, and the dessert menu has a few choices for celiacs. There are also locations in Glasgow and Aberdeen.
Dishoom: This restaurant chain describes itself as “a love letter to Bombay,” paying homage to the Irani cafes that were opened by Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran. According to the owners, “They were the first place in the city where people from any caste or class could have an inexpensive snack or a hearty meal, or just seek cool refuge from the street with a glass of chai.” Dishoom’s menu is full of excellent gluten-free options. (There are Dishoom locations across the UK.)
Hotel du Vin & Bistro: If you’re interested in partaking in afternoon tea, Hotel du Vin has you covered with its gluten-free menu. It’s also got a classic bistro menu, with fixed-price options for lunch and dinner. A friend recommended the spot to me because of the incredible cocktail list, and I can promise you it does not disappoint.
Locanda di Gusti: Chef Rosario Sartore hails from Naples, and his kitchen pairs artisan ingredients from Italy with meat, fish, and seafood from Scotland with dazzling results. While gluten-free dishes aren’t listed on the menu, there’s always plenty of choice, and the kitchen is aware of cross-contamination issues.
Sugar Daddy’s Bakery: This dedicated, 100% gluten-free bakery is a slice of heaven. They bake delicious cakes, cupcakes, cookies, brownies… really, there’s no way to go wrong here. Enjoy!
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