Everywhere I Ate in Mexico City, Part 1
A delicious challenge
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My visit to Mexico City in March was pure joy on so many levels. It’s a city that revels in its history but never tires of novelty. On every block there was something of beauty — maybe a gorgeous jacaranda tree in full lavender bloom, maybe a crumbling Art Deco–style building whose heyday was a century ago.
The absolute highlight was probably the day I spent exploring the pyramids of Teotihuacan and the surrounding site, an amateur archaeologist’s dream. (Don’t even get me started: not only are the pyramids wonders in and of themselves, but the fact that they were built by a mysterious pre-Aztec civilization whose name we don’t even know…) But every day in Mexico City was an incredible adventure.
But it was definitely not the easiest trip on the food front. Before I went, I saw some claims on social media that CDMX is essentially a gluten-free paradise. On a surface level, I understand why people might think that; after all, at home in New York, heading to a Mexican restaurant is usually a safe bet for celiacs. Also, I’ve generally had a pretty easy time on the gluten-free front traveling through Latin America — at least through Peru, Chile, and Argentina.
Instead, I found it to be something of a minefield. Cross-contamination was everywhere. Flour tortillas seem to be weirdly popular, and they’re grilled alongside the corn ones. Gluten is almost always in the sauces and moles. There’s a market in “low gluten” products that are frequently made from spelt or sourdough (good for folks with a wheat allergy, I guess, but not celiacs).
One thing that definitely helped me was the Latin American Spanish celiac translation card from Legal Nomads. I bought one for $9.99, made a bunch of paper copies and also downloaded it onto my phone, and it worked brilliantly. I haven’t been using translation cards at all lately in places like Paris or Rome or Barcelona, but I absolutely needed one for this trip. (Also, check out Jodi Ettenberg’s “A Celiac’s Gluten Free Guide to Mexico” on Legal Nomads — there’s so much helpful advice!)
I also found some truly terrific spots that I highly recommend — including a few dedicated gluten-free ones! Here’s Part 1 of my list.
La Otilia: This gorgeous bakery and café is located in the beautiful Polanco neighborhood, and it’s 100% dedicated gluten-free. (Everything here is also free of refined sugar, and many offerings are paleo-friendly, keto-friendly, and vegan.) It’s honestly like a perfect little oasis in a massive metropolis. When I went, in the middle of a weekday afternoon, it was almost deserted, but the cases of treats were well-stocked. I had an excellent galleta (think of a big but thin cookie) that was half-coated with dark chocolate and pistachio. In the spirit of research, I brought several treats back to my hotel to try on the following days. These included a red velvet cupcake (absolutely delicious but more chocolate-flavored than red velvet); a donut topped with hazelnuts and coated in dark chocolate (delicious); a “gansito” that I can only describe as chocolate cake with strawberry jam and cream (okay but really needed more jam); and a thick, cakelike galleta topped with salted caramel (THE BEST!). I wanted to come back for a meal here but didn’t have the time. Looking forward to my next visit!
