The Big Apple can be tough to take in the summer, but the perfect antidote is just north of the city. The Hudson Valley is an easy drive, bus ride, or train trip north, but it feels like an entirely different world. I’ve had the good fortune to visit Ulster County several times, and I can tell you it’s home to lovely hiking trails, gorgeous waterways — perfect for canoeing — and some truly fine food. Every time I’m there, I’m pleasantly surprised to find how celiac-friendly local businesses are. Here are a few of the gems I recommend:
Chleo: This terrific restaurant is located in Kingston, the only city in Ulster County. (Fun fact: Kingston became the first capital city of the state of New York in April 1777, and was burned to the ground by British troops that October; there’s an impressive re-enactment of the burning every year). Chleo calls itself a wine bar, but it’s so much more, with a sophisticated dinner menu, staff that are well-educated in celiac disease and food allergies, and a picture-perfect setting. The menu isn’t entirely vegetarian, but it is veggie-forward, with meat being more of a supporting player than a star. The restaurant can easily accommodate vegan guests, and much of the menu is naturally gluten-free or can be altered to be gluten-free. The offerings change frequently and depend on the season, but the quality is consistently excellent.
The Big Cheese: Located in the small town of Rosendale, this eclectic spot is part deli, part café, and part market. The name reflects its dedication to frommage, as it sells an impressive assortment of cheeses from around the world. It also boasts hot sandwiches, pizza, salads, and an all-day breakfast menu. Almost everything is available in a gluten-free version, and the cauliflower-crust pizza is especially good. The Big Cheese also offers fresh-baked goods; the list changes daily, but when I was in, there were gluten-free lemon coconut squares. At the back of the space is an eclectic collection of vintage clothing, accessories, books, and art.
The Alternative Baker: Across the street from The Big Cheese is this sweet bakery, which offers a terrific range of desserts. There are plenty of gluten-free treats (the bakery is aware of potential cross-contamination issues and avoids them), as well as dairy-free and vegan options, and even a few sugar-free goods. The chocolate truffle torte is a decadent delight.
Saunderskill Farms: Situated along Route 209 in Accord, NY, this small market offers a phenomenal array of celiac-safe groceries, from breads and bagels to snacks and frozen dinners. There’s also a fresh-baked gluten-free treat of the day (it was blueberry muffins the last time I was there). There’s a wealth of fresh produce, too, plus a gorgeous greenhouse filled with blooming flowers. From June through October, there are pick-your own events for (in order of growing season) strawberries, blueberries, apples, and pumpkins.
So lovely!