Iconic Central Park Walking Tour
Explore New York's backyard, with a few stops for gluten-free treats
A few weeks ago, I published “An Art Lover’s Walking Tour of New York City” and it received a tremendous response. Since the weather is — oddly — even better now than it was then, I wanted to offer another walking tour for everyone spending time in Manhattan over Thanksgiving or for the holidays in December. This time, we explore Central Park, which is a joy to walk through at any time of the year.
Central Park is often referred to as New York’s backyard, because it’s where people walk, congregate, picnic, play frisbee, and commune with nature, among other pastimes. It’s also credited with keeping the city sane, but that seems like a stretch. Designed by Frederick Law Olmstead and Calvert Vaux in the 1850s, Central Park is 2.5 miles long (extending from 59th Street to 110th Street) and a half-mile wide (from Fifth Avenue to Central Park West). Inside those borders is a world far away from the rest of the island of Manhattan.
This walking tour should take two hours — but it will be significantly longer if you want to explore the Metropolitan Museum of Art or if you decide to go rowing on Central Park Lake. You’ll need comfortable walking shoes — exploring the park can involve dodging cyclists, joggers, and baby strollers. You can take this tour any day of the week, but avoid Wednesdays if you want to see the Met (it’s closed that day) and keep in mind that weekends are extra-busy. There are walking directions in the text below, but click here for the Google Map I created. Using it will make it easier to follow the tour, and to spot other attractions you might want to make a detour for.
Are you ready? Let’s get going!
Does the name Noglu sound familiar? That might be because I wrote about one of its Parisian cafés a couple of weeks back. Surprise: there’s also a Manhattan outpost at 1260 Madison Avenue! Who wouldn’t love a dedicated, 100% gluten-free Parisian bakery as their starting point? There are sandwiches and salads and quiches if you want breakfast or lunch (choices include the delightful croque monsieur that I tried in Paris), but be sure to take a look at the glorious display of pastries (the lemon meringue tart is tough to resist). You might want to buy something to eat during the walking tour, because GF options inside the park are very limited.
Walk west along 90th Street to Fifth Avenue, which marks the eastern boundary of Central Park.
Head to the famous Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Reservoir. Created in 1862 as a part of the Croton Water System, the reservoir was in use till 1994. Occupying 106 acres and extending the width of the park, it is surrounded by bridle and jogging paths. The reservoir holds a billion gallons of water, is 40 feet at its greatest depth, and now serves only as an emergency backup water supply. The path around it is 1.5 miles long.
Follow the path south to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Walk behind the museum.
Marvel at the wonder of the Obelisk. Also known as Cleopatra’s Needle, this 220-ton monolith was carved from a single piece of granite around 1425 BC in Heliopolis, Egypt. In the 1870s, the Egyptian government gave this obelisk to the United States in commemoration of the opening of the Suez Canal. It was installed in Central Park in January 1881 and has been admired here ever since.
Continue on the path to the Great Lawn, which has been the site of countless softball games as well as political protests. Follow the path that takes you across East Drive and walk west.
You’ll spot Belvedere Castle at a distance. Built by Calvert Vaux in 1869, this fanciful medieval-style fortress-in-miniature sits at the highest point in the park and offers sweeping views across Manhattan’s playground. The many birds that call this area home led to the creation of a bird-watching and educational center in the Castle's ranger station. Beside it is the Shakespeare Garden, where the only flowers and plants growing are those mentioned in the Bard's plays.
Take the south path from the garden, which will cross the 79th St. Transverse Road.
There’s no park spot more iconic than the Central Park Lake. The 22.5-acre body of water was created from Sawkill Creek, and its perimeter is lined with weeping willows and Japanese cherry trees. Yes, in good weather, you can go rowing, if you’re so inclined: the neo-Victorian Central Park Boathouse at the east end of the Lake rents rowboats. (Rowboats seat up to four people, are currently rented for $25 per hour, and are only available on a first-come-first-serve basis; more details here.) Gondola rides are currently suspended, but if you’re interested in that option check this site for updates. Keep in mind that the management of the Central Park Boathouse has changed numerous times, so pricing and policies are always subject to change.
The Central Park Boathouse has both a casual café and a full-service restaurant. The casual café is affordable, but the gluten-free options are pretty limited — there’s a Greek salad and a tuna salad. The restaurant has many more gluten-free options, but the prices are high, in the $38-$50 range for an entree (not really a surprise, given the touristy setting).
At the south side of the lake is the stunning Bethesda Fountain. It’s one of the most iconic fountains in the world, and the bronze statue at its center — known as the Angel of the Waters — is the only sculpture that was commissioned in Central Park's original design. The Angel was designed by artist Emma Stebbins and dedicated in 1873.
Follow the path that leads directly south from Bethesda Fountain.
Marvel at the beauty of the Mall. A grand promenade—designed with a Versailles spirit—this shaded formal walkway is roughly a quarter-mile long. It’s bordered by a double row of stately American elms whose branches form a cathedral-like arch overhead. At the south end are statues of Columbus, Shakespeare, and other historic and literary figures.
As you reach the end of the mall, the path forms a circle; head to your right, past the Columbus statue, which leads to Center Drive. Follow Center Drive west.
Admire the Carousel. This charming Victorian merry-go-round was originally turned by a blind mule and a horse; its own colorful steeds are among the largest carousel ponies in the world. Its calliope has been playing old-fashioned tunes since 1872.
Return to Center Drive and continue south. At the Driprock Arch, turn left.
Check out the Wollman Rink. A relative newcomer to Central Park, this skating rink was built into the northern bay of The Pond in 1951. In winter it’s for ice skates, and for the rest of the year it’s all about roller skating and in-line skating.
If you still have energy to burn, head east for the Central Park Zoo (built in spite of Olmstead’s and Vaux’s protests in 1864). Personally, I think it’s time for a meal. One great option that’s just east of the park at 61st Street and Lexington is Lilli and Loo, which serves delicious pan-Asian cuisine. Further south, on 50th Street, is Bistango, which serves Italian food and is one of my all-time favorite restaurants. Neither Lilli and Loo nor Bistango is dedicated gluten-free, but both take GF dining seriously and have terrific procedures in place. You’re in good hands either way.
I want to wish all of my American readers a very happy Thanksgiving, and all of my readers a great week ahead! I’ll be away for the holiday next week and will see you again on December 5th.
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What a fantastic tour of Central Park!! I’m definitely following this next time I go!!