José Andrés: An Appreciation

Great food, good works — & many gluten-free options!

The first time I ate at a José Andrés restaurant was in Las Vegas circa 2017. Jaleo was — and still is — located on the third level of the Cosmopolitan (one of the more glam Vegas hotels, situated mid-Strip, just south of the Bellagio). Its mission is to celebrate the flavors of Spain — the chef’s homeland — and to showcase the rich regional diversity of Spanish cuisine.

I remember that the food at Jaleo was really, really good, but what truly won me over was how careful the staff was with food allergies and intolerances. Gluten-free options weren’t listed on the menu, but the staff had detailed information about what would be safe for me to eat, and they were savvy about cross-contamination.

The second time I ate at a José Andrés restaurant was the next year, and it was Jaleo again — though this time in Washington DC, the restaurant’s original location (it opened there in 1993). The concept is the same as at the Las Vegas outpost, and the service was just as strong. (There are also Jaleo outposts in Orlando and in Dubai.)

Around the same time, I started reading about World Central Kitchen, a charity created by José Andrés. Founded in 2010, WCK is active around the world, often in the wake of environmental disasters. (One current project involves Los Angeles, feeding first responders and people left homeless by the fires.) It left me with a deep appreciation of the humanitarian work Andrés is doing.

His restaurant Zaytinya opened recently in New York, and its menu is built around Greek, Turkish, and Lebanese cuisine. I’m thrilled to say that it’s up to the chef’s excellent standards — and that the staff is as thoughtful and well-trained as ever about food allergies and intolerances. Dishes that are gluten-free, or can be adjusted to be GF, are still not mentioned on the menu, but the staff will meticulously walk you through the offerings. I had the hommos — served with gluten-free bread — and the octopus Santorini (served with a yellow split-pea purée). I also sampled a lamb kebab with grilled tomatoes and pickled chilies (served without its usual pita accompaniment). Everything was delicious, with the octopus in particular being a standout.

Zaytinya, just like its sibling Jaleo, has multiple outposts. There are restaurants in Culver City (California), South Beach (Florida), and in Washington DC. I haven’t visited the others —yet — but I think you’ll be in safe hands if you do.

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